Friday 3 December 2010

Summing up Goa

Summing up our last minute 3 weeks in Goa where we started in North Goa in Calangute and ended up around South Goa which is our preference. Having said that we did enjoy North Goa much more this time except for the very busy Calangute. I guess its because it’s the first time we have rented a motor bike in the north so we could independently get around. On reflection, we should have stayed at least 2 more days there using our accommodation as a base and stopping in the extreme north Goa which we enjoyed very much. Goa is divided into many counties and now we have travelled all the coastal ones throughout Goa. Pernam is the coastal county that we liked in the extreme north of Goa as it is very quiet with lovely stretches of deserted beaches. We saw the extreme north beach of Querim and Arambol one day and Morjim beach on another but we have yet to visit the inbetween ones of Ashvem and Mandrem beaches. The main county where the majority of tourists visit is Bardez stretching from Anjuna where the big market is and Candolim with Baga and Calangute inbetween. The next county travelling southwards is Tiswadi where Old Goa and the capital Panjim is situated. This is where Jan and Steve have stopped a few times when they have visited Goa. There are also a few beaches along this coast like Vainguinim, Miramar and Dona Paula. There is a lot to see around this county but I don’t like driving the bike around this area very much.

Carrying on southwards the next coastal county is Mormugao where the airport is so everyone visits this one. There is also the busiest local town of Vasco Da Gama a mainly industrial town. There is Bogmalo beach along the bottom coast where we have visited a few times in the past and then at the bottom Velsao beach where the Wow 619 restaurant used to be and also the Horizon Beach resort but both these areas seem to be lacking tourists and even beach shacks this time. You then have the long stretch of south Goan beaches in Salcete where we know best starting with Betalabatim, Colva, Benaulim, Varca, Cavelossim and Mobor beaches. There are other smaller town here and there but it ends at Mobor beach where the boat trips come out the Sal to look for dolphins. The other side of the Sal is Quepem county but only has Betul beach along the coast line. You travel this county on your way to Palolem Beach and if you take the mountain roads you will not be disappointed with the scenery it’s a lovely drive on a bike. Finally you come into Canacona county where Palolem beach is along with Cabo De Gama and Agonda to the north and a few lovely bays to the south. Well that’s basically the Goan coastline but you have the state of Karnataka to the south and east of Goa and Maharashtra to the north. There are 4 other inland counties in Goa, Ponda where we drove through to get to the Dudhsagar water falls in Sanguem county. The other two inland states are called Bicholim and Satari in the north east but I don’t think that we have travelled these ones yet. I know that the Arvelem waterfalls are in Bicholim so we will probably go there at some point given time.

Well that’s basically India’s smallest and richest state but there are lots of other places of interest like temples and spice farms for those who enjoy those things. We did enjoy the spice farm one year but I fell ill with a temperature when we stopped over night in the jungle mud huts where the elephant sanctuary is. You would expect that staying in a mud hut you would be eaten alive with mosquitoes but you would be wrong. These cunning Goans cover their mud huts with cow dung which keeps the mosis at bay; however, the shit flies love them as do frogs, lizards and other jungle stuff. When you visit Goa, unless you stay in a 5 star hotel, your expectations of cleanliness go straight down and over the years we have found that we can stay in places that we would never have dreamed of before. It’s not a place to bring children but young groups of youths like it because its so cheap and warm with beautiful beaches. The main western tourists are couples whose children have grown up and are looking for a bargain beach holiday. Most people, like us, start off in really nice hotels and gradually work their way down. If you are looking for a two week holiday then you obviously want a nice place to stay but if you are like us, want to go on holiday many times a year or for long periods, then Goa takes some beating when you are on a budget. The local people and the many Indian workers that come here for the season are extremely low paid and almost totally rely on your tips so if you come, do tip low and frequently, it will be appreciated.

We have met some new friends on this trip starting in Calengute and ending in Cavelossim who I’m sure we will be seeing again and also old friends such as Dilli from Nepal who is working in Cavelossim for Rs1000 a month, about £150, so he can be away from his family and earn, just about enough to see them through until the next season. And when ill health beckons, which I should imagine is frequent over here, there is no national health so you either have to find the money for treatment or suffer the consequences. Coming here has humbled me and they still all treat you with respect and genuine friendship not jealousy. I hardly ever curse at the crazy driving like I do at home where they drive better but can’t quite work out why yet. Maybe next time.

While we have been away, I have secured a job for my return, completed a re-mortgage (yesterday) and had a new bath fitted in a flat, amongst other things, Ive even managed to follow by second favourite blog site www.deskarati.com . All this on a splendid 3 week break in the sun for less than £400 each plus spending money. Can’t be bad, why don’t you try it?

1 comment:

Jim Robb said...

Excellent coverage of a great trip, well done Phil.

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